Friday, 4 December 2015

1960's hair Lottie 16/10/15

Lottie Wigwork and Postiche 16/10/15

60’s Hair Beehive

Turn on the heated rollers so they have time to warm up. You will need medium sizes rollers.

Put a side or centre parting in the hair and then section off the hair in line with the ears so you have two sections at the front and one at the back. Use a pintail comb to do this.

You will need to put the rollers into the hair using the brick work technique.

Therefore take a section from the middle of the top of the hair, making sure it is not wider than the rollers you are using, otherwise it will fall off the end of the roller and will not be heated so will not change in structure.

Brush the section using a comb and pull it up and away from you. Then place the roller at the end of the hair and roll the hair around it using your pin tail comb to help you keep the hair neat and on the roller.

The roller should sit on top of where the section of hair was, is should not be above or below otherwise the curls will be distorted.

Then use one of the metal pins that comes with the roller to secure it in place. Alternatively you can use a large hair clasp but these do not hold the rollers in place as tightly.





For the next section of the brick work do a parting below the first roller in line with the centre of it. Take your sections from the middle of the hair and work outwards continuing to put in rollers in the same way. At the sides of the hair you may want to put the rollers in vertically instead of horizontally to help create the shape of the beehive.

Continue this until you get about half way down the back of the hair.
Then if you want to do a half up half down hairstyle you can leave the rest of the hair or style it however you want.

Alternatively you can put the rest of the hair into rollers vertically if you want to have all of the hair up. Doing this will help to direction the hair into a full up do.

Then put rollers into the front sections of the hair starting near the parting, rolling the hair in the direction away from the parting until you reach about half way to the ears. You can angle the sections and rollers slightly to help to create good direction in the hair for the beehive. Then with the rest of the hair put the curlers in vertically.


Leave the rollers to cool and set.

Take the rollers out.

Backcomb the curls on the top of the head and around the front.





Brush the curls on top of the head into a beehive shape. If you want the front sections of the hair to be in the beehive then brush them into shape as well. Alternatively you can leave them out and style later.

Use the end of your pin tail comb to lift the hair up to add volume and use hairspray if you want a traditional 60’s look with lots of volume. If you want a more natural modern look then use a bit of hairspray at the end.

Twist the hair at the back of the beehive and pin using Kirby grips, taking the grips through the hair and then back into it so that they are secure.



Brush through the curls under the beehive and brush them over to one side- the opposite side to the way the twist in the beehive goes. Secure just past the twist using Kirby grips crossed over each other.

Then bring the hair over the Kirby grips and twist in the same direction as the beehive twist. Secure using Kirby grips.

To pin the top of the twist you may want to use a fine pin s it does not flatten the twist.

If you did not bring the front sections of hair into the beehive then brush them through and pin them however you want to into the rest of the hair.

Finish with hairspray.









Evaluation

Evaluation
Working with wigs was the thing I was most looking forward to doing during my second year and it definitely did not disappoint. I feel like I have learned a lot about different types of wigs, how to style them and how to put them on. In the future I would like to work with different styles of wigs to see what other things I can create and I would love to learn more techniques for styling, especially men’s styles.

The thing I struggled with the most in this project was knotting a wig. I found learning how to make postiche pieces very interesting but when I attempted it myself I found it very difficult. I think the repetitive nature of it and concentrating on such a small object for a long period of time is something I am not very good at. I found it very frustrating and although I did improve a bit it took me a lot of time and so I did not complete my moustache. I was disappointed with this however I knew that to complete it would take me an incredibly long time and I felt the time would be better spent on doing other work for my project. In the future I would like to attempt making a postiche piece again or at least try knotting again but at the moment I don’t think it’s right for me and I think concentrating on my other work was the right thing to do in the end.

I enjoyed learning about the different decades and the hairstyles that were popular in these times. I feel that my skills in both hair and wig styling have improved during this project and I now feel more confident working with hair and wigs. There are some things I still need to practice a bit more such as punk hair and disco hair as I feel that these were my weakest hairstyles when I created them. I think this is mainly down to needing to practice the techniques I had not used before more, so I will do this in the future.

When I was styling my own acrylic wig for my assessments I found it difficult at first because the texture of the fake hair was different to anything I had used before so it took a while for me to work out the best ways to manipulate the hair. For example the hair was very difficult to section and to get the hair to go against the natural flow of the wig and in the direction I wanted it to go. In order to solve these problems I had to pin the hair very firmly and use steam to change the structure of the hair. I also changed my designs slightly so that they looked the best they could with the acrylic hair. For example I originally wanted to have traditional victory rolls in my 1940’s historical hairstyle but I found it very difficult to put them in my wig as the wig had very short hair at the front and so I decided to put curls in the sides of the hair instead.

 Another example of this was in my contemporary hairstyle I was going to have a very defined side parting however in a wig this was very difficult as when doing the parting you could see the base of the wig where you would usually see the scalp if you were working on someone’s natural hair. 
Therefore I combed the hair completely to one side instead of having the obvious parting.


Overall I was pleased with my final looks and I think they showed the level my skills are at well. I know I can make some improvements so I will use this in the future and keep practicing to improve my skills in wigwork.

Bibliography

Bibliography:
Biddle-Perry, G. and Cheang, S. (2008). Hair. Oxford: Berg.
Cox, C. (1999). Good hair days. London: Quartet Books.
De Castelbajac, K., Richardson, N. and Chermayeff, C. (1995). The face of the century. New York: Rizzoli.
Fashionmuseum.co.uk, (2015). Fashion Museum, Bath รข€“ Welcome to the Fashion Museum. [online] Available at: http://www.fashionmuseum.co.uk/ [Accessed 6 Nov. 2015].
Jones, D. (1990). Haircults. New York, N.Y.: Thames and Hudson.
Keyes, J. (1967). A history of women's hairstyles, 1500-1965. London: Methuen.
Marie Claire, (2015). 1930s Fashion: A Decade In Style Demonstrated By 13 Iconic Beauties. [online] Available at: http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/549400/1930s-fashion-the-women-who-defined-thirties-style.html [Accessed 20 Nov. 2015].
Prescod, D. (2015). The Complete Fall 2015 Trend Guide. [online] ELLE. Available at: http://www.elle.com/fashion/trend-reports/news/g26017/the-complete-fall-2015-trend-guide/?slide=1 [Accessed 29 Nov. 2015].
Stevens Cox, J. (1984). 2nd ed.
Tunell, A. (2015). The Best Hair Trends for Fall 2015. [online] Harper's BAZAAR. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/hair/g5455/fall-2015-hair-trends/ [Accessed 25 Nov. 2015].
Tunell, A. (2015). The Best Makeup Trends for Fall 2015. [online] Harper's BAZAAR. Available at: http://www.harpersbazaar.com/beauty/makeup/g5499/best-makeup-runway-trends-fall-2015/ [Accessed 25 Nov. 2015].

Valenti, L. (2015). Remember the Crazy Things We Did to Our Hair in the '90s?. [online] Marie Claire. Available at: http://www.marieclaire.com/beauty/news/g2806/90s-hair-trends/?slide=1 [Accessed 20 Nov. 2015].

Decade I have chosen

I have chosen the 1940's as the decade I am going to use as inspiration for my hair designs. This is because it was the decade I was most looking forward to learning the hair techniques of and the hairstyles from the 1940's are the hairstyles I like the most. I also think the hairstyles are very flattering and can be made to suit a lot of people.
In the early 1940's up until 1945 the Second World War was still taking place which meant a lot of items were rationed. These included clothes and therefore fashion changed as women had to find new ways to make the clothes and material they had last. Also as many women were taking on men's jobs what they wore had to be practical which resulted in most of them being given modified versions of the men's uniforms to wear. The women's hair needed to also be practical and so many publications issued instructions on how women could style their long hair to be suitable for wearing with their uniforms. These styles included long hair being pinned up usually at the nape of the neck or the hair being curled very tightly and pinned into place.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=board+of+trade+suitable+hairstyles+for+women
+during+the+war&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=606&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_p8j2v8LJAhWLshQK
HWBLB28Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=+suitable+hairstyles+for+women+during+the+war&imgrc=uzPWcTBA0jqOOM%3A
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=board+of+trade+suitable+hairstyles+for+women+during+the+war&espv=2&
biw=1242&bih=606&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_p8j2v8LJAhWLsh
QKHWBLB28Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=+suitable+hairstyles+for+women+during+the+war&imgrc=uSyGZZtmpwUCKM%3A
To gain more knowledge about the decades especially the 1940's I lokked at several books:
A History of Women's Hairstyles 1500-19-65 By Jean Keyes
Hair Cults by Dylan Jones
Hair by Biddle Perry and Cheang
Good Hair Days by Caroline Cox
An Illustrated Dictionary of Hairdressing and Wigwork by James Stevens Cox

Possible wig designs for contemporary assessment











Possible wig designs for historical assessment




Possible make-up designs contemporary







Possible make-up designs historical assessment




Final Design Hair and Make-up Contemporary





Final Design Hair and Make-up Historical




Hair through the decades

Good Hair days, A History of British Hairstyling by Caroline Cox

During the late Victorian era hair was important as it helped to show a women's status in society and also her family status. As the women was seen as the heart of the family and was there to support her husband who's job brought in money to the family. Therefore it was seen as important that the man's wife was well presented as she represented him and the whole family as well as herself.
The daughters hair was also important. At this point in history the amount of hair was important, the longer the better as it was the quantity of hair and not necessarily the quality of hair that was seen as important. Therefore the saying "so long she can sit on it" came into fashion as proud mothers would boast about their daughters hair. Hair was so important at this time that some believed that without it a women was not a women at all. In order to get such great length of hair there were many old wives tales that women followed such as brushing their hair with one hundred brush strokes a day. As long hair was seen as being so important and the ultimate symbol of femininity most of the icons of the time had long hair. These people included Miss Billie Burke, an American actress who appeared on Broadway, the West End and in films during her later life.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=miss+billie+burke&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=1008&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjJk5Lw9b3JAh
WCkg8KHVmqCiQQ_AUIBygC&dpr=1#imgrc=ZKnyQziNEkC9JM%3A


https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=miss+billie+burke&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=1008&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjJk5Lw9
b3JAhWCkg8KHVmqCiQQ_AUIBygC&dpr=1#imgrc=xyJxsZr1_ozT6M%3A

1900's
This was the end of the Victorian era and the start of the Edwardian. Hair continued to be of great importance to show wealth and status and the more elaborate the better. Therefore hair pieces and padding became very popular amongst the middle and upper classes who could afford them. Hair accessories also became very popular with pearls, shell, ribbons and other accessories being incorporated into the hairstyles. A lot of skill was required to achieve these hairstyles and so the best hairdressers were in very high demand especially for important events. In some cases women would  have their hair styled in the days before the event because the best hairdressers were in such high demand.

As hair pieces and padding became so popular the term postiche started to be used. It is French and means "adding hair". In hair salons at this time often there would be at leat one posticheur who was responsible for working with the hair pieces, wigs, padding ect.






1910's

During this decade women's hair started to be cut into styles which had not really happened for many years. Especially after the war women had large amounts of their hair cut off and sweeping fringes put into their hair. This was frowned apon by a lot of people as the hairstyles were seen as being very boyish in style and not feminine as it was thought a women should be.Although this did make the hair a lot easier for the women to style as their was hardly any of it left. This was also done by some women because their hair had become so thin and damaged from all of the over styling during the previous years. The cutting technique used was often called close cutting because as the name suggests the hair was cut very close to the scalp.

1920's

During the 1920's more and more women especially young women were having their hair cut into short styles. The flapper became a style icon and so short hair and dresses became iconic during this decade. The bob hairstyle became very popular and set a challenge for the hairdressers who were only used to dealing with long hair. Women no longer wanted to spend such vast amounts of time taking care of and styling their hair. This started during the war in the previous decade where women did not have as much time for hair styling and carried on into the 1920's.

http://www.stylist.co.uk/people/50-style-icons-of-the-1920s#gallery-2
Joan Crawford actress and style icon in the 1920's

http://www.stylist.co.uk/people/50-style-icons-of-the-1920s#gallery-1
Louise Brooks a silent movie actress in the 1920's






1930's

Curles became very popular in the 1930's as women moved away from the sleek bobs of the 1920's. Pin curls became very popular as the were quite easy to complete and kept the hair out of the way.
Bette Davis
http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/549400/1930s-fashion-the-women-who-defined-thirties-style.html
Vivien Leigh
http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/blogs/549400/1930s-fashion-the-women-who-defined-thirties-style.html


1940's
During the Second World War many women had to work in factories and therefore needed to have their hair up out of the way. However they still wanted to look good and were even encouraged to take pride in their appearance as it was seen to help the war effort if people took pride in themselves and their appearance. Therefore up-do's with decorative curls became very popular. Also victory rolls were worn a lot by women both during and after the war. The hair length was usually past shoulder length but not really long and this was popular as it was an easy length to work with when styling the hair into up-do's.
Betty Grable
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=
1242&bih=566&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVw_mwg8LJAhUEchQKHZdBCp8Q
_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=betty+grable&imgrc=FV7LlGvPXlLqVM%3A
Gene Tierney
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=566&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahU
KEwiVw_mwg8LJAhUEchQKHZdBCp8Q
_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=1940%27s+icons&imgrc=kuYdBeY_uRLRzM%3A

1950's

In this decade decorative up-do's from the 1940's were still popular but they became more relaxed in style. Also a lot of women had their hair cut shorter as it made it easier for them to style their hair into the up-dos. The pin up look was very popular with glossy hair with rolls and parts of the hair pinned into styles.
Elizabeth Taylor
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=566&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVw_mwg
8LJAhUEchQKHZdBCp8Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=elizabeth+taylor&imgrc=2fsrze_M-xHn6M%3A
Marilyn Monroe
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=566&source=lnms&tbm=isch&
sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVw_mwg8LJAhUEchQKHZdBCp8Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=marilyn+monroe&imgrc=8uRhWv-rerAXpM%3A

1960's
Volume was very important in the 1960's especially as the beehive became popular. Women would use lots of backcombing and hairspray to try and get as much height as possible. The texture of the hair on the outside of the beehive however was very smooth as was the rest of the hair. In this decade smooth flicks in the hair started to become popular. However model's such as Twiggy set the trend of short boyish hair, completely the opposite of the beehive.
Twiggy
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=566&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVw_mwg8LJAhUEchQK
HZdBCp8Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=twiggy+1960s&imgrc=aIAuLQA6T_AIZM%3A
Brigitte Bardot
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=566&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVw_mwg8LJAhUEch
QKHZdBCp8Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=brigitte+bardot+1960s&imgrc=biyW0IgdeW8IjM%3A

1970's

Waves and flicks in the hair were very popular as was disco afro hair. Frizzing and curling were very popular in this decade. Lots of product was used on the hair in order to create the frizzy curled texture. Hair dressing techniques such as feathering were used to create the flicks of the 1970's styles.

Farah  Fawcett
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=5
66&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVw_mwg8LJAhUEch
QKHZdBCp8Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=hair+icons+1970%27s&imgrc=_4LaR4LqUPT22M%3A

1980's
Punk hair was very popular and lots of people experimented with colour and styles. Volume was still very popular as was messy texture, the mohawk and  fringes too became popular in this decade. Mullets became popular for me and this was the decade when the expression 'business in the front, party in the back' was born.
Madonna
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=566&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi
Vw_mwg8LJAhUEchQKHZdBCp8Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=madonna+1980%27s&imgrc=yW6JF8RXqBItPM%3A
Madonna
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=566&
source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVw_mwg8LJAhUEchQKHZdBCp8Q_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=1980s+
hair+icons&imgrc=pO5tsfyfmKSsZM%3A


1990's
Crimping, plaits, twists and colour were all very popular in the 1990's. Hair accessories were also popular with bandanas, scrunchies, clips and beads being used in many 90's hair styles.

Gwen Stefani
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ginger+rogers&espv=2&biw=1242&bih=566&sourc
e=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiVw_mwg8LJAhUEchQKHZdBCp8Q_AUIBigB#tbm=i
sch&q=1990s+hair+icons&imgrc=uxJ5axKKeAyp_M%3A